Raisa & Vanessa

Twin sisters Raisa and Vanessa Sason founded their Istanbul label in 2011, and the house has held to a maximalist register ever since: dimensional tailoring, padded and structural shoulders, sequinned net, hand-strassed embroidery, corsetry built into gowns and separates alike. The training shows in the construction, which is what keeps the drama from collapsing into mere spectacle. The sisters have dressed Cardi B and J.Lo and run a long list of brand collaborations, though the cutting was serious well before the placements arrived. What earns Raisa & Vanessa a place here is the range across pieces that hold up worn singly, from a chiffon ruffled skirt to an embroidered feather top, not just full eveningwear.