Gemy Maalouf

Gemy Maalouf established her house in Beirut in 1996, and built it around an idea she calls couture a porter: the finish and embellishment of haute couture, cut to be worn rather than staged. The clothes are romantic in the Lebanese register, draped satin, sculptural embroidery, plisse and appliqued botanical motifs, but the construction underneath is precise. Two lines run in parallel: the demi-couture mainline and a more accessible Edition collection. A solid international stockist network has carried the house for nearly three decades. What earns Maalouf a place here is the balance: the prettiness is real, but it is held in check by serious tailoring and a clear sense of proportion.