Bouguessa

Faiza Bouguessa has been making sharp, minimal abayas for eleven years. The work reads closer to architecture than to fashion — silk-crepe robes cut to fall a specific way from the shoulder, kimono-cut coats that take up the space they take up, a pyjama silhouette that ought to feel domestic and somehow doesn't. The cuts read most clearly from the back. Beyoncé wore the emerald velvet in 2017 and the piece sold out in minutes, which is the kind of moment most labels mistake for a strategy; Bouguessa kept making the same restrained line.